Really bad oil consumption!!!

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fedix
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Really bad oil consumption!!!

Postby fedix » Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:39 pm

what could be the cause and where to start?

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StJean
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Postby StJean » Sat Sep 27, 2014 7:22 pm

Every Genesis based engine will eat a lot of oil.
To this day, the best I can advise is to bore cylinders, use a Wiseco kit, correct the valve seats (very hard to find someone that actually really knows what he's doing for this job) and then be very very gentle with your engine for at least 5000km
Dropped my oil consumption from 1l/1000km to some oil from time to time...

But anyway, whatever you do, you'll allways need to add some oil in the GTS when the weather is hot, your driving insane, and your trip long.

PS : DO NOT grind your valves seats yourself... don't trust anybody that says you can do it with some grinding paste and a drill.
If a man says he will fix it, he will !
There's no need to remind him every six months about it.

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24c
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Postby 24c » Sat Sep 27, 2014 7:24 pm

What oil are you using?
Any visible leaks?
Does it smoke?
Is the breather blocked?
What RPM are you running at or how are you using it?

Causes...other than obvious oil slick following the bike,
Wrong oil viscosity & type
Rings stuck or bores knackered, (black plugs, smoky exhaust)
Valve seals worn,
Engine running weak and burning on underside of pistons

EDIT after reading StJean's post, and I validate the rebore advice, once you've checked the simple things.

However, I would after a rebore, when the engine is warm THRASH the ar$e off it, because, the piston rings are skinny, and rely on gas pressure to scrape/seal the bores. If you don't operate the engine at maximum torque/load points then the rings will not be pushed out well enough to form a proper seal.

It is the biggest cause of modern engine oil burning, pooling old style with a car or motorcycle engine...and it seriously makes things worse. The modern way, is reduce the warm up cycle (cold start washes the bores with fuel), and use the gas pressure the rings expect to seal the bores.
I've just started riding the GTS again, and it'll be changing

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24c
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Postby 24c » Sat Sep 27, 2014 7:34 pm

PS I had a company Audi A4 that would do about 350 miles between oil light flashes when I got it at 70,000 miles, as the previous owner did mainly stop start short journeys, and ran it in like an "old man". By the time I left it aka 150,000 miles, I could get 1200-1800 miles per litre of oil, and that was driving at the same speed on the motorway or more!
I've just started riding the GTS again, and it'll be changing

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Devonian
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Postby Devonian » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:22 pm

You do not say what you consider "Really bad". If you don't want to open the engine up then you might consider that sustained high rpm (over 5000) is a typical operating condition that causes oil consumption to increase. I would postulate that low throttle opening (as in while steady cruising) has something to do with it as well.

If you don't want to open the engine up, I suggest liimiting sustained high rpm riding and/or swapping sprockets around to raise gearing somewhat.
MSF Ridercoach -- IBA: 35353 -- 95 R1100GS, 85 R80RT, 96 DR350, 85 TW200, 99 DX125

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StJean
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Postby StJean » Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:56 am

Ho, BTW, using 20W50 mineral (I'm using Motul 3000, about 30€ for 4L, or 24£ for 1gal) will help too... and it's cheaper than 10W40 synthetic ;)
If a man says he will fix it, he will !

There's no need to remind him every six months about it.

Mark Henry
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Postby Mark Henry » Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:36 am

The GTS uses a lot of oil - I've had too keep on top of this touring Europe checking it every few hundred miles - Bloody worrying first time around when the light comes on.

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Devonian
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Postby Devonian » Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:28 am

StJean wrote:Ho, BTW, using 20W50 mineral (I'm using Motul 3000, about 30€ for 4L, or 24£ for 1gal) will help too... and it's cheaper than 10W40 synthetic ;)
Heavier oil should create more internal resistance and get hotter. Not sure how this will significantly help frothing or consumption. It will also be slower to pump around in cold weather and can increase the likelihood of spinning a bearing.

Sorry about the outrageous price of lube oils in UK - It really is a consumer rip-off as the same oils in the US are ~1/3 to 1/2 of the cost, which is not due to oil taxation differences. Over here, you could buy synthetic oil for what you're paying for mineral, and have enough left over for a tank of fuel.
MSF Ridercoach -- IBA: 35353 -- 95 R1100GS, 85 R80RT, 96 DR350, 85 TW200, 99 DX125

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24c
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Postby 24c » Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:33 am

Devonian wrote:Not sure how this will significantly help frothing or consumption.

Anecdotally, I once put some Castrol all singing and dancing synthetic 5W/60 in the bike, and the oil light came on after 110miles of motorway use, I didn't have anymore and the motorway service station only had 10W/40 synthetic (Shell), and so I used this and it wasn't much better, but I almost made Dover doing the same speeds, roughly about 160 miles away. I topped up again and crossed into Europe, but could only get 10W/40 synthetic (Elf) and kept topping the bike up, and by the time I was crossing back into the UK, I was getting 350 miles a top up.

So I would say that the 10W/60 wasn't really suited to the bike, and the 10W/40 was better. I did the gearing thing to lower it further, but as the engine squirts oil to the underside of the pistons, I wouldn't really use mineral oil. Mineral oils tend to lose their volatile compounds at higher temperatures, so your oil quality will decrease if you're running the bike at higher engine temperatures (higher RPMs). I personally would use synthetics, but if the bike has worn rings (and a lot have) then you'll have to live with the oil consumption if you rev the engine.

Mike
I've just started riding the GTS again, and it'll be changing

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Postby Moriniman » Thu Mar 05, 2015 8:24 pm

My Yamaha specialist recommends 20W40 semi-synth.


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